Formulation and Evaluation of Lip Balm Using Different Herbal Pigments

Background: Lip balm is one popular formulation in cosmetic field. The primary role of lip balm is to treat dry lips and prevent their dehydration. Some lip balm utilized chemical-based synthetic dyes causes side effects and has short moisturizing effect compared to the natural formulation. Aim: In current research study, the lip balm batches were prepared with natural pigments to minimize side effects and to maintain the moisturizing effects for long duration. Materials and Methods: The 10 batches of lip balm were formulated using extracted pigment from pigment of Opuntia fruit , pigment of Curcuma longa, pigment of Nyctanthes arbortristis flowers , pigment of Centaurea orientalis flowers and carotene by using fusion method. The ingredients of lip balm include a moisturizer, an emollient, and opacifying agent, antioxidant, antiseptic, SPF (UV-protection). All batches of lip balm were evaluated for pH, softening point, spreading aging stability, texture, color melting point, surface abnormality, perfume stability and skin irritability. Results: All 10 batches of lip balm showed smooth texture and no surface abnormalities. All formulations were stable, convenient, and effective to apply. The perfume was retained during and after aging stability study. Conclusion: It was concluded that the lip balm prepared using herbal pigments also bears ideal characteristic of lip balm


INTRODUCTION
Herbs, Phyto-constituents, and extracts have been used since ancient time as traditional medicines for thousands of years all over the world.Cosmetics are chemicals or substances applied to the body to improve appearance.Today, the use of cosmetics has become more widespread worldwide and is constantly evolving, especially facial cosmetics (lip balm) from herbs/ natural sources. [1,2]The herbal cosmetics like lip balm do not contain other potentially dangerous ingredients (synthetic chemicals preservatives) that are found in synthetic products, such as petrochemicals, artificial fragrances, spices, dyes and preferred over regular lip balms prepared using synthetic material. [3,4], the world is returning to herbal products.Herbal cosmetic products are an irreplaceable gift of nature to humans as a wide range of herbal cosmeceuticals that complete beauty treatment.Lips are particularly sensitive due thin skin and are often the first sign of dryness.Lip balm is the most common cosmetic product that most people (men and women) use to moisturize and protect lips from cracking and drying as it form an occlusive coating on the surface of the lips, lock in moisture and protect the lips from external exposure, such as sunlight, in the winter season, with less humid temperatures, winds also dry the thin skin on the lips that away the moisture from the body. [5]imarily for protection, the top layer of the skin (corneum) has around 15 layers in general while at the top the layer of the lips (corneum) has around 4 layers and is quite thin as compared to formal facial skin.Due to thin layer, lips dry and crack/ chapped easily and so lip balm are the best choice as it contains a waxy material to cover the lips protects damaged lips from ulcers and cold sores.There are few melanin cells in the lip skin. [6,7]fferent types of Lip balms are literature classified according to the ingredients, for example, moisturizing lip balm, UV (Ultraviolet) filtering lip balm, healing lip balm, tinted lip balm, nourishing lip balm.Using an herbal lip balm to nourish and protect lips from the elements is a healthy and effective way to care for lips. [1]p balms are also classified into different types, such as natural components.Herbal lip balm is made from herbs, plant extracts and essential oils.These ingredients are often organic, non-toxic, and free of artificial flavors, colors, and preservatives.Nourishing and Soothing: Herbal lip balm contains herbs to repair and soothe dry, chapped lips.For example, beeswax, shea butter and cocoa butter form a barrier that locks in moisture and protects the lips from further damage.Beeswax is a natural compound secreted by bees that is often used in cosmetics, especially lip balms.This substance is very moisturizing and helps in lips protection from the harmful rays of the sun and possesses a pleasant smell.Beeswax acts as a natural emulsifier.Nourishment: The nourishing ingredients of the lip balm restore the natural oils and moisture of the lips.Coconut oil, jojoba oil and vitamin E oil are examples of ingredients that provide hydration and nutrients that support healthy lips.Multipurpose: In addition to treating viral infections and colds, herbal lip balm can also protect lips from the harmful sunrays.Thanks to the use of essential oils, herbal lip balms can also create a calming and soothing aroma.
However, there are some differences between lipstick and lip balm, particularly in terms of aim of use and functionality, because mainly lipstick is used for coloring of lips, but lip balm protects the lips from drying.The preparation of lip balms requires balancing the concentrations of the chief component's (butter, waxes and oils) to attain the adequate melting temperature (65-75ºC) of the final product.Thus the contact of the lip balm with the lips does not results in a feeling of friction or dryness and allows homogeneous layer formation on the lips to protect the membranes of the lips that are sensitive to environmental factors (UV radiation, pollution, drought) [8,9] Creating lip balms requires a balanced concentration of key ingredients like as butters, oils, waxes and pigments, as every ingredient has different functions and affects the characteristics of lip balm.The beeswax eases the shine and hardness, wool fat (lanolin) allow as an oil-based base, white petroleum jelly as a humectant, glycerol as a stabilizer, oleic acid as a texturizer, saccharin/aspartame as a sweetener/flavor, zinc oxide as a sunscreen, titanium dioxide as a fogging agent, lemon oil as an antioxidant and antiseptic. [10,11]

Extraction of pigment
Accurately weighed 200 g of Herb (Opuntia ficus-indica) fruits (Family-Cactaceae) grounded, soaked with 1 L ethanol and mixed using mechanical stirrer 1 hr for high yield of pigment.Mixture was filtered using qualitative filter paper (size 102), centrifuge at 10000 rpm for 5 min to get supernatant.Supernatant was finally dried using freeze drier.4] The pigment from Nyctanthes arbor-tristis flowers (Family-Oleaceae) was extracted using Soxhlet apparatus and ethanol as a solvent.Extract was concentrated using freeze drier.4] The pigment from Centaurea orientalis flowers (Family-Asteraceae) was placed in a thimble and packed in Soxhlet apparatus.The ethanol was used for extraction of solvent.Mixture was placed in freeze drier.7][18]

Characterization of pigments
Yield: The yield of pigments extracted from the fruits of Opuntia ficus-indica, flowers of Nyctanthes arbor-tristis flowers and flowers of Centaurea orientalis were determined. [19]IR study: The FTIR study was performed using Fourier transform infrared spectrophotometry (Shimadzu IRAffinity-1S).FTIR is used to identify various types of bonds and functional groups of the molecule or a mixture.[20]

Development of Lip Balm
The ten batches of lip balm were prepared by fusion method.All components were heated at 70ºC in beaker in controlled manner in sequence of solid, semisolid and liquid excipients.On complete melting mixture was mixed with remain excipients.The sequence of addition of excipient was as showed in Table 1 and Figure 1D.The lip balm batches were kept in a dry and cool place.

Evaluation and characterization of lip balm
Organoleptic properties: The visual inspection was performed to confirm any change in color, odor, or shape during storage environment. [21,22]xture: The texture of 5 lip balm from all 10 batches was evaluated to confirm the presence/ absence of any grittiness /or separation of any solid particles on applying or during storage. [23]: The pH tests were performed by immersing probe of digital pH meter into a lip balm mixture to confirm acidic pH or alkaline pH.[24] Melting point: Total 10 batches lip balm was placed in individual capillary tube.The temperature was increased linearly, and capillary was observed for melting of lip balm using thermometer.FTIR: The FTIR (Shimadzu, IRAffinity-1S) was used to figure out various type of functional groups and bonds present in molecules or a mixture by scanning sample from 500 to 4000 cm -1 wavelength.

Softening Point:
The Orbital shaker has been used, to determine the softening point and the temperature was increased linearly up to 60ºC. [26]rface Abnormalities: Visual lip balm texture, which has been evaluated for checking orto reveal whether there is presence of any surface imperfections such as wrinkle and crystal formation, exudation of both fatty substances and solid, and contamination by microorganism like mold and fungi. [27]ging stability studies: Lip balm batches were evaluated for testing and the expediting of stability experiments over a 30-day period at 25ºC (room temperature), 5ºC (refrigerated), and 40ºC.

Perfume stability:
The lip balm batches were stored at 25ºC room temperature for 1 month to evaluate perfume stability of lip balm.The fragrance was also confirmed. [28]in irritability: The skin irritability test was done simply by applying the product to the skin and letting it on for 10 min. [29]read ability: Lip balm were evaluated for testing and the expediting of stability experiments over a 30-day period at room temperature (25ºC), refrigerated (5ºC), and oven temperature (40ºC) as marked as good, intermeddle and bad as showed in Table 2. [29]

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The yield of pigments extracted from Opuntia ficus-indica fruits, Nyctanthes arbor-tristis flowers and Centaurea orientalis flowers were found to be 1.67±0.25%,1.83±0.36%and 1.12% as showed in Figure 2.

Wool Fat:
The peak at 1737 cm -1 for (C=O) corresponds to sulfoester covalent bond, bands near 1600 cm -1 assigned to C=O and N-H (amide I and II combination of amide), peaks of H-O-H bending mode at 1635 cm -1 1076 cm -1 as shown in Figure 4.

Oleic acid:
The FTIR showed the in-phase methylene (CH 2 ) twisting motion at 1318 and 1450 cm -1 , symmetric -CH 2 stretch and the asymmetric -CH 2 stretch at 2854 and 2923 cm -1 respectively, -C=O stretch at 1708 cm -1 , C-O stretching at 1285 cm -1 as shown in Figure 4.

White Petroleum Jelly:
The FTIR showed the presence of various peaks, 3000 cm -1 showed C-H sp 2 stretching band, also at peak of 2900 cm -1 determined as strong C-H stretching sp 3 , at 1300-1400 cm -1 showed C=C aromatic band 1100 cm -1 obtained C-H bending, and at 745 cm -1 showed C-H out of plane aromatic at fingerprint region as shown in Figure 4.

Glycerol:
The FTIR peaks at 3321.78 cm -1 (O-H) stretching, O-H bending at 910.22 cm -1 , C=C at 3009.99 cm -1 , C=O stretching of esters present in the glycerol at 1739.61 cm -1 , O-H stretching at 3321.78 cm -1 while, C=O stretching at 1739.61 cm -1 , O-H bending at 910 cm -1 , C=C at 3009.99 cm -1 , O-H stretching at 3265 cm -1 , C-H stretching at 2810-2950 cm -1 , C=O stretching at 1560 cm -1 , bending of C-O-H group in the region of 1400 to 1420 cm -1 (C-O st of the primary alcohol) as shown in Figure 4.

Zinc oxide:
The FTIR showed the presence of peak at 440 cm -1 showed the Zn-O stretching vibration as shown in Figure 4.

Drug excipient interaction
The

Development of Lip Balm
The 10 batches of lip balm were prepared successfully using 5 different pigments as shown in Figure 5.

Evaluation of Lip Balm
The quality of the lip balm was evaluated by using some parameters, including FTIR, organoleptic properties the pH   Organoleptic properties: The color, shape and size with perfume tested after 1 Months. [38,39]lor: The lip balm batches A1-A5 color was found to be creamy-golden-yellow-off-white-light-golden yellow-light green respectively as showed in Figure 6.The lip balm batches B1-B5 off white-dark golden -yellow-brown-light yellowskhaki, it changed due to using different herbal pigment extraction as shown in Table 3.
Texture: All 10 batches give smooth texture which no grittiness and precipitation or separation of any solid particles can be found during applying as shown in Table 3. [40,41] pH: The pH of lip balm formulation obtained around A batches of lip balm 6.3±0.15 to 6.4±0.26,Bbatches of lip balm 6.3±0.25 to 6.4±0.25 shown in Figure 7 and Table 3. [42,43] Melting point: Respectively, A1-A5 melting point of lip balm yield varied from 53.63±1.24 to 53.63±1.53 and B1-B5 yield varied from 44.34±1.12 to 44.34±1.35shown in Figure 8 and Table 3. [44] Softening Point: Softening point of formulated lip balm was recorded around 40.35±1.12 to 42.12±1.64ºCshown in Figure 9 and Table 3. [45] Surface Abnormalities: Total 10 lip balm visually showed smooth texture, no presence of any surface imperfections such as wrinkle and crystal formation, also no contamination of microorganism like mold and fungi as shown in Table 3. [46] Aging stability: All batches were stable as shown in Table 3.

Perfume stability:
The formulated lip balm has been stored at 25ºC room temperature for month, the fragrance has been recorded as retained. [46,47]in irritability: was no skin irritation discovered after applying formulation on the skin as shown in Table 3. [48,49] Spread-ability test: The lip balm spread smoothly with no gritless as shown in Figure 10.

CONCLUSION
In summary, developed herbal based lip balm formulation by using fusion were stable, smooth, and efficient as marketed products.Natural pigments were found to be compatible with excipient used to prepare lip balm.The developed lip balm bathes showed good quality, color, appearance, texture, perfume stability, pH, spread ability, melting point, softening point, no surface abnormalities (smoothness), aging stability, perfume stability and no skin irritation.prepared using herbal pigments also bears ideal characteristic of lip balm.

Visht,
et al.: Herbal Lip Balm bending vibrations (esters), peaks around 1500 showed CH 2 (Hydrocarbon) also at 1739 representing of C=O stretching vibration (ester and free fatty acid), also below 1000 shows CH 2 group as shown in Figure 4.
Fourier transform inferred spectroscopy of lip balm batches showed the presence of broad OH stretching, Aromatic ring stretching of C=C-C group, and aromatic C=C,also several aromatic C-H bending out-of-plane=C stretching have been reported, C-O stretch, and C-O group,C-OH and C-O stretching, aromatic C=C, also bending of several Aromatic C-H in-plane have been reported-H stretch reported, stretching of OH and Aromatic, C-H,C=O, C-S,C=C, C-H, C-C group, and C-H Asym/ sym. as shown in Figure 5.

Figure 8 :
Figure 8: Melting Point of Different Lip balm batches.

Figure 9 :
Figure 9: Softening Point of Different Lip balm batches.Figure 6: Various batches of lip balm batches.

Figure 6 :
Figure 9: Softening Point of Different Lip balm batches.Figure 6: Various batches of lip balm batches.

Figure 10 :
Figure 10: Spreadability of different batches of lip balm in different temperature.